Even the highest quality bathroom taps may start to drip, sputter or simply look outdated over time. If your taps are in need of an upgrade, consider tackling the project yourself. I recently replaced all my bathroom taps myself, and found it relatively straightforward than I thought. It was more like a fun (and a little messy) learning experience. Sure, there were a few minor setbacks, but with some research and online tutorials, I tackled everything from the basin taps to the bath fillers. Now, my bathroom looks amazing, and I feel a newfound sense of accomplishment and confidence in my DIY abilities.

I am sharing my experience in this comprehensive guide. It will equip you with the knowledge and confidence to tackle, bath, basin, and shower installation saving you money on bathroom renovation.

It is important that you unpack and check the content of the Bathroom Taps Set you receive to ensure everything you need is available in the box.

Although the time required to complete this task depends on your skill level. You must consider an hour a reasonable time to complete it.

• Approximately 60 minutes

Never embark on a plumbing task without first ensuring your safety. Make sure you turn off the water supply to your bathroom. It can be located under the sink or near the bath, usually an isolation valve through which you rotate it in a clockwise way until it stops turning. Additionally, do not forget to also put on safety glasses and gloves so as to protect yourself from splashes and sharp edges.

The following is a general list of tools and materials needed when installing most bathroom taps. However, specific requirements may vary depending on the type of tap you are installing. 

• Adjustable spanner
• Basin wrench (for some taps)
• Flat-head screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• PTFE tape (also known as plumber's tape)
• New tap(s)
• Flexible tap connectors
• Compression nuts and olives (for some taps)
• Bath sealant (for bath tap installations)
• Optional: Drill (for specific situations)

You will need to place a bucket under the basin to catch any basin. Using an adjustable spanner, loosen and disconnect the flexible tap connectors from the isolation valves underneath the sink. Next, use an appropriate wrench or screwdriver to take out the nuts that secure the taps onto the basins from beneath. Take care while removing old taps and pay attention to where there are washers or seals.

Clean around the tap holes with a wet cloth. Make sure that you see no cracks anywhere in your basin. Go straight into step 3 if it is like-for-like taps being replaced. For different hole sizes, a specialized adapter kit may be necessary.

 Compression fittings are employed by most of today’s contemporary basin taps which have flexible tap connectors. Starting at the base, wrap some PTFE tape about three times round each connector threaded end in such a way it moves clockwise. The connectors should then be carefully threaded into those isolating valves so as to ensure they fit snugly but not too tightly in place using an adjustable spanner for tightening purposes.

• Attach these through under basins via the holes meant for them by inserting these connectors in place. Ensure the washers/seals are fixed before you place the tap on top of any basin. From below, thread the mounting nut onto the threaded stud of the tap and tighten it with an adjustable spanner or basin wrench. Make sure don’t over tighten it or you end up cracking the basin. 

• First hand tighten the compression nuts on the flexible connectors, then follow up with a quarter turn using an adjustable spanner. Turn on the water and check for leaks. If there is a leak, carefully retighten the connections. Wipe off the excess water with a cloth.

This guide covers two common basin faucet methods:

• Mono mixer basin taps: These single-lever taps provide one-handed control of hot and cold water. Follow the steps above, making sure the hot water connection is to the left when viewed from the front.
• Pillar Mixer Taps: These have two separate handles, one for hot water and one for cold water. Follow the installation steps and make sure the hot water faucet is installed on the right side

 As for basin taps, the water supply will need to be turned off and a bucket or a small pot should be under the bath to catch some drips. An adjustable spanner should be used to remove nuts that secure the taps to the bath. If you are installing a bath filler (one of the types of stand-alone taps fixed on the edge of the bath), You will need to follow similar steps. But also exercise care so as not to damage the surface of a bath.

Clean around tap holes in a bathtub. If required, use bathroom or caulk sealant to create a good seal around existing tap holes. For your specific model of tap, consult manufacturer’s instructions.

Most contemporary bathtub fittings come with flexible tap connectors. Just like with basin taps, PTFE tape will be wound on them when connecting them with isolating valves.

The two main types are deck-mounted and wall-mounted.

• Bath Deck-Mounted Taps: These are mounted directly on top of the bath deck. Now push through flexible connectors via these holes and position this body over your tub. The nuts that come along with washers can be fastened from underneath onto this unit before tightening up using an adjustable spanner (do not crack by over-tightening).
• Wall Mounted Taps: These are the types of taps which are fixed on the wall above a bathtub. Adhere to the manufacturer's guidelines on drilling of holes and installing wall brackets. Attach the tap body onto the bracket with the screws provided and fasten tightly.

Most bath mixer taps have a connection for a shower hose. Locate the shower hose connection on the tap body and screw on the shower hose hand-tight first, followed by a quarter turn with an adjustable spanner.

Tighten the compression nuts on the flexible connectors hand-tight first, then follow up with a quarter turn using an adjustable spanner. Smear bath sealant under the base of where it meets in order to seal off water entry into the bathtub. Let it dry as recommended by its manufacturer before turning the water supply back on.

• Fixing bath fillers may vary slightly depending on your model type. Consult your model’s manual for installation instructions that have been specifically made for this faucet type. In general; they connect to existing pipes within the structure of the bathtub by attaching a reservoir to it so as to be able to hold water securely avoiding any leakages through its interconnections.

There are two main types of shower taps: those that are concealed and those that are exposed.

•  Exposed Shower Valves: These taps are fixed directly to the wall and they control how water flows in and what its temperature is.

Shut off the water supply and isolate the shower if possible. Disconnect the shower hose from the old valve as well as any pipework attached to it. Use appropriate spanners or wrenches to undo mounting nuts or brackets holding up a valve on a wall.

In case there is a need, make sure that there is a good seal around the present shower valve connections using PTFE tape or plumber’s putty. See your particular model’s manufacturer instructions for an exposed shower valve.

The majority of today’s exposed shower valves connect with flexible tap connectors. Just like basin taps, wrap PTFE tape around them before fixing hot and cold water supplies

Pass these flexible connectors through designated holes in a wall plate then position the body of this valve onto it just above reaching into the mortar depths. Secure it by employing mounting nuts which come along with washers provided. An adjustable spanner should be used when tightening by applying firm pressure but mind that over-tightening may damage either wall surface or the connections themselves.

One should find particular points for shower hose and head connections on the shower valve. Screw the hand-tightened shower hose first then adjust it with an adjustable spanner by a quarter turn. Use the specified connection, usually a nut and washer – which links the shower head to another end of the hose.

Start tightening compression nuts from flexible connectors using your hands before making quarter turns using an adjustable wrench. Open up the water supply so that you can check whether there are any leaks or not. In case there are some leaks, kindly retighten these joints with care. Use a dry cloth piece to remove the rest of the water.

 They hide behind a panel in the bathroom only showing control knobs on them. Therefore, there is much more work involved in connection especially when accessing pipework within cavity walls. Unless you’re an experienced DIYer specializing in plumbing projects, it’s best not to attempt concealed shower valve installation without consulting a qualified plumber first.

• When replacing a normal faucet, the installation procedure should be relatively straightforward. However, if the faucet hole sizes are different or you are dealing with a completely different faucet system, you may need to replace your basin or bath or purchase an adapter kit
• Avoid excessive effort when tightening connections, as this can damage faucet pipe or basin/bath surfaces.
• If you are having any problems or are unsure of any position, do not hesitate to consult a professional plumber.

You can easily install bathroom faucets as a DIY by following the steps in this guide. So, if you want to tackle bathroom faucet installation, take a deep breath, grab your tools, and give it a try! You will need little preparation, and the right mindset for the successful installation, and the result will amaze you.